Rest!

After the last post I have been climbing in Siurana, Montsant and Terradets. In Siurana I had this really weird one night-lasting superfever which had disappeared totally the day after. Oh well, so we went climbing. I was determined to try again Boys don´t cry, a 7c at Ca d'Isabel-sector. The last time I was in Siurana after trying the route once I fell sick (!) and couldnt try it since. The route is really non-Siurana style, very bouldery, steep and big holds. Sooo...after hanging like three hours on the route (thank you Mark for patience), huffing and puffing like an idiot and ripping my finger I had to admit that I still couldnt do one move..on a 7c..weeelll..I was quite pissed off but at least I know even clearer than before my weaknesses :)

Siurana

Next day we went to Montsant and Raco de Misa to climb some easy, long pocket routes. Then back to Terradets. I worked out the moves for a 7c+ called La Bonita sesion de mete y saca, really good route with tufa climbing, dynamic jug climbing and a slab crux in the end. I couldnt do the crux from these bigger holds which people apparently usually use, I had to come up with a really weird sequence, using this crimpy sidepull..either way the first go a muerte went really well, but my foot slipped in the crux and whatam!! the crimp ripped my index finger



Note the blood on the rock. And my beautiful feet :p

Next day was rest day and I got a fisioterapeutic session for my shoulder from Pablo who was staying nearby. We had a nice car tournee around the near areas and took a distant look at several crags and a close look at Oliana. Also accidentally met Daila Ojeda with the van I am interested in buying so I could have a quick look at it. Our conversation covered all the important things, as size of bed and the pretty cloth that you can hang in the window. Girls.. :p  Seeing the crag briefly only just before darkness I can say its amazing! Well its big, like 55 metres at highest, continously overhanging and long, nice tufas all over. I hope I will be able to buy the van and return here the weeks to come.


The day was super, but I was feeling anxious. This feeling of anxiousness hasnt left me since the beginning of December. So next day we go climbing, I was nervous, my climbing partner too, so it escalated into a really bad energy between us. I had to climb my 7c+ project without tapes in my fingertips, because they would just slide away. So I go and do my best even though I had really bad feelings. When I reached the crux I was feeling fysically very good but I was so nervous that I just messed it. And when I fell I felt mostly desperate. And I also ripped my other finger :D So there was blood so much I left this route and tried an 8a a couple of times. Unfortunately with my taped fingers I couldnt try the crimpy part but I will return to try this one!

The next night I didnt sleep much, I was thinking a lot. I decided to leave to Lleida the next day to heal my fingers, mind and shoulder that was aching after the treatment. On tuesday I went Madrid to see my Finnish dear friend who was visiting there. And man, I gotta say that this has been the lowest low for some time. I have developed this golden cage where my life situation is actually really beautiful but I put so much expectations on myself that when I dont succeed continuously, I feel depression, anxiousness and hatred. I have big plans that are of course necessary, and if I never had the courage to dream I wouldnt have climbed my first 8a for example..but when those expectations run over the joy of doing you are officially fucked. And when I go really deep into this circle, I feel that I have to remove myself from the situation to see and feel it differently. So I have been resting, doing all kinds of idiotic non-useful things and balancing between feeling guilty or releaved because of this. An hanging out with him:

The man of my life since 1989

But yesterday happened what I had been waiting for..I felt productive again! And I felt like I really wanted to go climbing! Right now there are still some thoughts that are accusing me of this choice, especially as I have been forced to rest during the autumn because of small injuries and flues, but all in all I guess it was a good choice. The program for spring is not just t o develop my fysical weaknesses but also learn to keep my spirit positive and patient. This will be a lesson I can adapt in other life areas as well and I think in the long run when it comes to my development in climbing it will be more important than for example being really superstrong. So here we go, against the unknown :)

Welcome

Welcome to my blog. The blog you are reading will cover my life as a possible university dropout, climber and seeker of the purpose of life. I started climbing in 2004 with my dear friend Niko. We went to Kiipeilykeskus in Helsinki, Finland. For many years I climbed mostly indoors and didnt show big signs of becoming very focused on rock climbing. After many things changed in my life, some slowly and some abruptly, I had the possibility, will and energy, both mental and physical, to concentrate fully on climbing. Last summer I spent climbing in Rodellar, Spain. In October I moved to the city of Lleida, which is situated in the area of Catalonia. My cover story was to study psychology in the university of Lleida and I believed in it myself for some time. Although I enjoyed studying Spanish and Catalan, my passion is directing me right now towards seeing how far I can develop as a climber. I have progressed relatively quickly, raising my redpoint level from 7a+ to 8a in four months. Although gradewise my goals are set high, the most important journey I am making is the one to finding my inner purpose. This journey is about living in presence, it's a journey to freedom of spirit. This spiritual journey is nowadays an inseparable part of my life and thus my climbing.

With love, peace and joy from Spain
Leena